VIEW LIGHT BEFORE CLICKING.

Here in the position of the car, the light is low because of clouds and adjacent trees...Yes low lighting is tricky and challenging. U need to apply all ur understanding to find out the right exposure without missing ur subject from clicking..U may encounter low light situations when photographing cityscapes in the evening, during rains with heavy clouds or in dusk and night time. Besides this may happen in private lowlit parties and events....THE LIGHT WILL NEED BIGGER APERTURE to allow maximum of light to pass thru camera to sensor....If this does not work and u get still underexposed photos, try to decrease the shutter speed to low which because of dull light, may be at lower side. Here, u will require a tripod. the most essential help in trouble....The other thing remains to satiate ur desire to capture the low light photograph, is to increase the ISO setting on the camera...This will increase chances of u getting more slower shutter speed for perfect exposures....therefore u can come home with some good stuff....In the photo of the car above, i used evaluative metering which read most of the light falling on the car body, then i did one stop minus exposure compensation to have subdued whites.

VISUALISE IMAGES BEFORE U CLICKS.

Many photographers in enthusiasm or mesmerised by the digital camera start shooting randomly..Not a single shot will be worth the viewing, only because of so many or unnecessary elements and otherwise going idle in composing the picture either in the LCD panel or viewfinder...Result? They feel dismayed....WHY? Only some of your brain skill, which is already in you, may help a lot with some carefulness. Here I wuld like to emphasise that pl learn to see your shot without having to look through your camera's viewfinder or LCD. You shd use your hands to make a virtual viewfinder frame and see your scene through it (like a film director). This will pave way for you to understand composition, position of lighting, selecting or removing unnecessary objects from ur ultimate image. These are the basic steps. If you wish to go ahead, there are several branches of photography, which will entertain you or help you to be a professional photographer earning livelihood from your camera, as I did.
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PHOTOGRAHY:HOW CLOSE SHOULD WE GO?-37

IT is a common question in every person having camera and going to shoot...For example he is snapping a friend standing in the garden....He may be in confusion whether to cover whole garden or his friend only....However, generally the closer the better. The nearer the camera to the subject, the larger its image grows in the viewfinder/LCD screen. At the same time surrounding details disappear.

2. NOW TO THE PERSON PHOTOGRAPHING HIS FRIEND HE WILL HAVE A VIEW FROM THE FAR END OF THE LAWN, most of the lawn, larger part of the adjacent house together with greenery in the form of bushes, assorted weeds etc... But before the person clicks, his friend would like to prefer a picture of himself. As he goes closer, gradually the trees of the drive move off the edge of the picture. The bushes at the other edge will follow suit, while the roof of the house and quite a lof of surplus garden will disappear at the top and bottom. As we move further closer, the viewfinder will just show full personality of the friend....If the person wants to end here,he should leave it at that. Or wish to go nearer still for a head and shoulder portrait or even a close up of the face, he can go more closer. But in close up of face, use the lens at tele end not to show any distortion of the face...This small pace will teach the person a lot.

DO U LIKE CAMERA SHAKE?

I shd admit that i have a shaky hand, in terms of the weight of the p&s cameras...nearly 3-4 cameras I bought, weighing 100-115 gms...and when i pressed the shutter, the result will be a shaky one, leaving few in sunlight.....Generally, I am comfortable with dslrs OR PROSUMERS WEIGHING 500 gms. and above.

2. Next i want the shutter release button on top plate of the camera, which is common on the front of the hand grip....and also wud like to have a viewfinder in small p&s dcams...The LCD monitor works as a viewfinder, then u have to learn the trick to hold the camera steady, having eye on the LCD panel...which may also result in a shaky shot.

3. The most easy way to use a tripod....but 99 percent, in candid and general photography and fast moving shoots, it is not possible to handle the heavy weight of the tripod....and in public in the market, u become a showpiece....The dcam mfrs. have therefore developed anti-shake systems incorporating in their cameras.

4. PANASONIC has achieved this by getting the sensor to move thereby cancelling the effect of camera shake. Panasonic has further invented a new antishake system, in which the CAMERA automatically boosts the ISO and the shutter speed to avoid the blur....Olympus has followed it by boosting the ISO in order to check camera shake.

5. In dslrs some companies have incorporated IS or vibration reduction system within their lenses....A group of elements move to combat the camera shake....Other manufacturers have adopted a different system...They have incorporated the anti shake system within the camera body...
Therefore, they have their own views for incorporation of the anti-shake system, either in the lens or in the camera body. However, this is a great advantage for people like me.