MONSOON ENTERS--BE PREPARED.

THE RAINS JUST STARTED. I switched my ISO TO 3200...therefore a good amount of noise. Took it on manual mode at f3.5 and 1/13. The light is against the lamp-post. you can visibly see the yellow effect of an halogen lamp...the rest blue area is lighted by tubelights and was 200ft away. Therefore i got the distance in the picture. The rains were close to my gate...and it was a good downpour. The halo effect i could not get because there were tree branches near the lamp-post.

2. However one way to capture the droplets of water on a glass pane, try to include the light source like a street lamp in the background. This will show droplets more vibrant and make them stand out clearly. One easy way is to keep the light source out of focus so that the water droplets stand out clearly. Next, you can create another interesting effect by shooting the droplets as bokeh by blurring them out.

3. The lighting conditions during daytime with a good directional sunlight will capture rain effectively. The backlight plays a good role here to bring out the drops of water more clearly. Thus you can try several angles for the prominence of the rains. The sidelight will help light up raindrops partially and add a three dimentional effect to the overall picture. You can use your on camera flash to freeze the droplets during night or after it is dark...Making still life objects, freeze raindrops in closeup mode inside the room by using on/off camera flashes.....LOOK out for the perspective of your subject including with rain water. Avoid camera shakes and wrong focus, not to lose your best efforts.

PHOTOGRAHY:HOW CLOSE SHOULD WE GO?-37

IT is a common question in every person having camera and going to shoot...For example he is snapping a friend standing in the garden....He may be in confusion whether to cover whole garden or his friend only....However, generally the closer the better. The nearer the camera to the subject, the larger its image grows in the viewfinder/LCD screen. At the same time surrounding details disappear.

2. NOW TO THE PERSON PHOTOGRAPHING HIS FRIEND HE WILL HAVE A VIEW FROM THE FAR END OF THE LAWN, most of the lawn, larger part of the adjacent house together with greenery in the form of bushes, assorted weeds etc... But before the person clicks, his friend would like to prefer a picture of himself. As he goes closer, gradually the trees of the drive move off the edge of the picture. The bushes at the other edge will follow suit, while the roof of the house and quite a lof of surplus garden will disappear at the top and bottom. As we move further closer, the viewfinder will just show full personality of the friend....If the person wants to end here,he should leave it at that. Or wish to go nearer still for a head and shoulder portrait or even a close up of the face, he can go more closer. But in close up of face, use the lens at tele end not to show any distortion of the face...This small pace will teach the person a lot.